I just wanted to send out a quick blog post regarding some cool M1A finds
Ebay has a new neat little feature that allows users to create “collections”.
These collections are made up by users for the public. Users can select different products from various vendors to display on each profile.
I found some pretty cool M1A Stocks from various vendors on ebay and added them to my “M1A stock collection”.
Check it out here on ebay –> http://www.m1arifles.com/go/m1astockcollection
What’s in the queue for m1arifles.com?
We have some tutorials, videos and reviews on M1a accessories coming soon!
I’ll send out another email soon.
Do These Deeds To Make Sure You’re Spending The Right Money
In the market for a used M1A? Good! More experienced, more knowledgeable M1A pro’s – experts that are invariably a lot smarter than I – believe that the absolute best option when buying a used M1A is to search for and find the oldest one you can. That’s right: according to them, the older the better. Why? Primarily “corporate quality control”. What this means is that regardless of the manufacturer, if you purchase a used gun that was originally produced to fulfill a government/military/law enforcement contract, the corporate quality control at that time would be exhaustive.
What this does is increase the probability that the original piece was made to be perfect, and made to last. Also, the year it was manufactured and who it was manufactured for will also determine whether or not it was built using galvanized iron (GI) parts, GI chrome bores and, if the people, the employees at the manufacturer, really gave a pile of bull spit about what they were doing.
Okay, now that little soapbox preaching homage to my elders is over. Now comes the important “what do I do if I want to buy a used M1A?” Maybe you’re searching for a White Feather or a camo Super Match? Stainless Steel option for the barrel? Fiberglass stock? Maybe you already found a USMC with iron sights? Maybe you know more than I? Maybe you are on the prowl for something that no one’s seen in a bit. Regardless, here’s a tested, tried and very true short hand checklist to make sure you walk into a used M1A purchase with eyes wide open:
The M1A used buying checklist:
- Smile – You’re off on a journey to buy a piece of military & sharpshooting history. Life is good!
- Now, focus on performance – that’s what the M1A is all about, that’s why you’re buying it, so… make sure she performs. That means meet the seller at a gun range to test and inspect the rifle before you hand over any loot. If the seller balks, hedges, waffles or outright says “no” to letting you see the M1A do it’s thing, then walk away from the deal.
- Take it apart/field strip – ask the seller if they are comfortable with you taking the M1A apart in front of them. If they are, then have at ‘er and inspect everything you can – the bolt, the trigger grouping, operating rod, barrel et al. While you’re at it, compare the numbers to see if the rifle has aftermarket parts, or if they are barrel, and compare the numbers to see if they are United States Government Issue (USGI).
- Now, the biggie: the “tilt test” – For your hopefully almost new/used M1A rifle to perform correctly, it must first cycle, then extract, eject and lastly feed the gas system at optimum levels. To gauge this, and to make sure that the action is smooth throughout the entire range of travel, most gun experts recommend the tilt test, which entails:
- Remove the barreled action from the stock
- Remove the operating rod spring AND the operating rod spring guide.
- At this point, you’ll know whether or not the action is good – by how freely the operating rod slides back and forth under it”s own weight. If it does, the action is good. If it doesn’t, well, ya know.
- Now, tilt muzzle upwards to a measured 30-degree angle – which is the maximum angle the M1A needs to be at to induce full movement
- Then, tilt muzzle downwards to a measured 30-degree angle – you should see the weight of the operating rod should contact the gas piston tail and bring the bolt all the way forward, then lock the lugs easily into the rifle’s receiver. At this point, if you encounter drag, simply note where the drag started and go back and have a look at the operating rod, the channel itself, the bolt tracks and the operating rod’s alignment to the receiver and how it fits with the operating rod guide. On older rifles, any fallibility here aren’t necessarily a huge deal, and is something that can easily be fixed by you, or whatever super hero works on your weaponry. If you see problems here, talk it through with the seller, maybe it’s a negotiating point to drop price, or at the very least, there’s a good story behind it.
- (Note: this is an abbreviated walk through a “tilt test”. Check with your gun buddies, gun smith or have a look around the various M1A forums for more data points. There are many, many other steps & tests to apply to this or any rifle you might be considering, such as:
- Test for flash suppressor alignment
- Check for loose screws and hardware
- Check for alignment of operating rod and gas cylinder
- Extractor quick check
- Test for bolt roller impact
- See if trigger guard lockup is operational
- Shoot! This is why you drove 120 miles through the rain to meet the seller. It wasn’t to drink bad coffee, it was to shoot. Do it. Shoot! This is the best and funnest way to see if the used M1A you’re considering is up to your muster. And, all kidding aside, the best way to see if this is the rifle for you is to see the results on the paper downrange.
Most important thing about this entire process – aside from enjoying yourself – is to take the time to do it right. M1A rifles are a special purchase and they deserve your full attention. If you are ready to buy and take home this very unique weapon, take your time and know the seller, the background of the weapon, past and potential future modifications and that you are getting the most pop for your buck.
INSTRUCTIONS ON REMOVING THE VLTOR RAIL CLUSTER FROM A SPRINGFIELD ARMORY SOCOM II
Hello to all of my fellow SOCOM II owners! I am pleased to bring you a detailed description on how to remove the VLTOR Cluster Rail from your rifle in a few easy steps. From installing a mod-stock, to simply not having a use for your rails any longer, I will have you ready for whatever plans you have in store for your SOCOM II.
The VLTOR cluster rail removes easily and only requires a few minutes of your time and some very basic tools. Here is what you will need:
1.) One 5/32 Allen Key
2.) One standard size socket wrench with a 3/8” socket attached
3.) About 10 minutes of time to remove rails
4.) A small amount of elbow grease
Locate the two 3/8” bolts on the left side of your SOCOM that attach the rear of the rail to the receiver. Set your socket wrench to remove the bolts and begin turning them counter clockwise. My bolts were set very tight and required a little assistance from my wife. While my wife tightly held the rifle in place, I removed the bolts which eventually broke free and were unscrewed the rest of the way by hand. The two bolts have washers attached, so be careful not to lose them.
Remove the lower portion of your rail cluster from the upper rail assembly. This is easily done by simply depressing both of the rail locking tabs located on both sides of the lower rail attachment. Push them in at the same time and simply pull the lower rail away from the upper rail assembly.
Now you have to remove the receiver/barrel from the stock. This has to be done in order to reach the Allen bolts that secure the upper rail assembly to the barrel. First start of by removing your trigger group. This is done by simply pulling out and upward on your trigger guard. Once the trigger guard is fully opened, remove the trigger group by pulling straight up. After removing the trigger assembly, the stock should simply lift off of the receiver. However, my rifle’s stock was very, VERY tight around the receiver and required a little bit of elbow grease. This is most easily achieved by pulling up on the rear portion of the stock, whilst pulling it towards you to clear the lip that holds the stock ferrule. Once the stock is off, we move on to the next step.
Now we move on to the actual removal of the upper rail assembly from the barrel. This is very, very simple. You will now need to use your 5/32 Allen key. You will see a large rounded band that curves around the barrel, with two Allen screws on either side. This is what secured the upper rail assembly to the barrel. Insert your Allen key and turn counter clock-wise, loosening and eventually removing both screws. After you have removed both screws, push firmly against the band to loosen it from the rail. Once it breaks free it should come right out. Now is the most gratifying step. Pull the upper rail assembly away from receiver and barrel. It should come off with little or no effort.
My suggestion at this point is to re-attach all bolts, screws and hardware back onto the rail cluster. This will prevent you from losing any hardware, should you ever decide to re-install or sell your rail cluster. It should be noted that there is one piece that is particularly important on the rail cluster that will fall out if not secured back in by the original 3/8” bolt that you removed in the beginning (see photos). This piece holds the rail tight against the hand-guard clip slot, used to secure the standard rails to the barrel.
Now that you are all finished removing the rail cluster, re-assemble your rifle the same way you disassembled it, just perform all actions in reverse(if that makes sense – lol). Now you are ready to put on that scout rail and hand-guard that has been patiently waiting to be installed…or maybe a new mod-stock? Whatever you plan to do, do it safely and enjoy that M1A!!!!!
Don’t miss out on this M1A Stock!
Check out this deal on a Camo M1A Synthetic Stock with Harris bipod stud!
Hey M1A lovers! I was browsing ebay when I stumbles across this crazy deal. According to the auction description it’s a USGI M1A Synthetic stock painted in a 3 tone camo scheme. The stock was picked up at a gun show and the description states the owner doesn’t know what type of paint was used. The stock itself is in very good to excellent condition with some minor handling marks underneath the paint.
The front swivel was replaces with a Harris bipod stud adapter which allows you to attach Harris or Harris style bipods.
You can view the item by clicking the image or link below. Good Luck!
At the time of this post the item has ZERO BIDS and the starting price is ONLY $89.99, HURRY!!
M1ARifles.com member Sappnasty shows us how to white letter our guns, mags and accessories. Check out the video below.
- China White marker
- Rubbing Alcohol
- Clean cloth
Did you like the video? Have something to add or comment? Leave your thoughts below.
Yup, it’s true. I’m paying for your experience and opinions about the M1A/M14 rifle.
I’m using my GI bill to go to school and my m1arifles.com blog is slowing down as far as content goes. That’s why I’m offering to pay for your M1A/M14 experience and opinions.
I’m willing to pay the following prices for content:
* A single 300-500 word article – $25 ($30 with pictures)
* A single video review or “how to” – $50
* Combination of both video and content – $75
The content could be anything related to the M1A rifle like accessory reviews, m1a history, product reviews, “how to” (ex. “how to disassemble your m1a rifle”) new rifle/gun laws, marksmanship, or any other idea you might have.
Your name will be kept as the author on your content, however, you must agree to ONLY publish the content on m1arifles.com. You can’t publish it elsewhere. This is to protect m1arifles.com with Google’s terms of service regulations.
If you are interested, use the contact form here http://www.m1arifles.com/contact-us/ and send me your ideas for content. If I approve, I will give you the go ahead and wait for the content. Also, respond here in this thread and let me know if you would be interested.
**I will make payments to you via paypal, make sure you have an account, IT’S FREE.**
I look forward to your replies. Comment below
I was browsing ebay and stumbled upon this beauty. It’s a USGI fiberglass m1a rifle stock set. Handguard is included. It is slightly used but the paint is pretty fresh. At the time of this writing the starting bid was at only $24.99 with ONLY 1 bid. The seller’s user name is ellicottdepot and has a 100% positive feedback rating which makes this listing the M1A deal of the day.
Time left: 4d 22h (May 09, 201019:25:22 PDT)
You can View the auction by clicking here.
That’s right! M1a Rifles is throwing another contest with a sweet prize. Don’t miss out on this opportunity to win a New Burris FastFire II Red Dot Sight with Mount.
It’s time to make the m1a forum hyper active again and this contest will do just that. So head over to this post to read the forum contest rules.
M1A Deal of the day is something that I will implement from now on here on M1ARifles.com. I will find the hottest M1A Rifle related deals on the net. These deals will be sourced from various sites like ebay, amazon, gun broker and more. All will be related to the M14/M1A. Items to be included will be M1A rifle stocks, slings, rifle scopes, rangefinders, cheek pads, bipods and more.
M1A Deal Of The Day: Springfield M1A Fiberglass Rifle Stock With Recoil Pad
I was browsing through ebay and found this beauty. A Springfield M1A Fiberglass Rifle Stock With Recoil Pad. Here is what the description has to say about this m1a stock.
Up for auction is a rifle stock for the Springfield Armory M1A sporting rifle a rifle that is legally sold in all 50 states and is not a banned rifle under e bay guidelines.
This stock was taken off a new rifle the owner went with a McMillan stock and did not want this.
It has the factory recoil pad and is black it has checkering on the rear and forearm area unlike the USGI issue Viet Nam fiberglass stocks.
Both sling swivels are included and this does not require the metal liner as does the wood stock.
No foreign sales please do not ask.
Thanks for looking and good luck bidders
The Bidding Started at $0.01
and is currently at only $10.50 with 2 bids. Hurry and jump on it before someone else runs away with this steal of a deal!
Click here to be taken to the auction.
The M1A rifle is not an inexpensive rifle—the standard model typically costs between $1000 and $1800. So, understandably, people who purchase it want to know if it is reliable and effective. They also want to know how it performs at shooting 1000 yards. Can the M1A rifle shoot 1000 yards, as some people say—or is this just nonsense? Read on to find out.
Background of the M1A
The M1A is actually a high-quality reproduction of the United States M14 rifle that was used during the early years of the Vietnam War. Actually the M14 rifle is still being used in some branches of the U.S. Army, Navy, and Marines. Some countries around the world use variations of the M14 as well. So, this should indicate just how reliable and useful the M1A rifle is.
The M1A is classified as an assault weapon if it is equipped with a pistol grip or flash suppressor in many states. In those states, people can get a legal muzzle brake for the rifle. It would be wise for anyone to check local laws before purchasing this rifle.
Shooting 1000 Yards with the M1A
It is definitely possible to shoot 1000 yards with this rifle—no nonsense here. However, it is not simple to do. Anyone—even the most experienced rifle shooter—is likely to have trouble starting out. After all, take a look at any 1000 yard high-power match and you will see that there are very few service rifle entries. And, the people who have entered with service rifles are typically from the military. But this simply points to the fact that the M1A can (and does) shoot 1000 in experienced hands. Why? Well, the military entries in the high-power matches are using the M14 rifles—and these are like the very close relatives of the M1A’s.
Tips on Shooting 1000 Yards
You really need a lot of practice with your M1A in order to be able to shoot 1000 yards, of course. However, there are a few tricks you can try in order to boost your odds of succeeding. Give these tips a try:
Choose the right bullets. For long-range shooting, you need bullets with the highest ballistic coefficient (BC).
Try a steady prone position. While this doesn’t work for every shooter (bench shooters), many people still use the prone position for an accurate shot —which, therefore, helps to get their bullets to go further.
Get a rifle scope. Try buying a M1A rifle scope that is sealed, waterproof, and fog proof. This might help you to get better precision in your aiming, which could help with your distance.
When all is said and done, it all comes down to this—you are going to need to practice. The accuracy and shooting potential of the M1A is exceptional, but only if you put in the time and effort. And, yes, this rifle is definitely dependable and worth the cost. It is excellent at shooting targets, of course, but it can also be put to work for hunting and for tactical uses.