Lockwork: dry or wet? | M1A Rifles | M1A Forum

Newbie dumb question:

M1A technical manual specifies lubrication of moving parts… though I can't find any discussion as to whether the lockwork – especially the sear and the hammer step – are to be lubricated or left dry.

What's the correct procedure with the Springfield M1A?

Thanks in advance!

Shootist,

Many thanks!  I appreciate the heads-up about the hammer sear claws.  Dry they shall stay.

Best,

Ran / Si Vis Pacem

No, anywhere it rubs except the claws is fine….to answer the second question…….You aren't globbing the grease in there, just a light thin film smeared smotth on the parts is enough.

Also, i do not use the petroleum greases, they seem to just be messier, nor do i use Lithium grease because it thickens over time in storage…..

I found the PTFE based greases such as Tetra(Available at Wal-Mart) or some of the other newer PTFE based firearms greases are acceptable.

Two things i have found i didn't like is REM-OIL or BREAK FREE, for some reason after a couple monhts in storage they both turn into a Sticky cosmoline type goo, you end up practically having to scrape off the gun to get it clean enough to use and if you live in a Antigue house like i do that is always dusty the dust adds to the goo reinforcing it. 

Thanks!  Very uselful.

Best,

Ran / Si Vis Pacem

Believe it or not, that birchwood casey Rust -Blueing remover, doesn't seem to affect the phospate finish on gunparts yet dissolves the rust.(Warnign, this rust remover stinks to high heaven so do it outside.)

Just get some on a q-tip and rub lightly you'll see the q-tip turn rust colored and the rust dissapearing, then just oil it when it looks like the rust is gone, it may lighten the Phosphate but won't remove it.

I used this technigue on a Colt SP-1(The light barrel, triangle handguard version) i bought, they haven't been made since 1984 and this one was in mint condition except for the light rust on the ejector cover and it removed the rust and left the phospate finish. Thats how i know this works. I tried it on that little part because if somethign went wrogn it was easily replaceable.

Shootist,

Thanks for the note on PTFE.  AimHi Shooting Range sold me a tube of Tetra Gun grease – and it is a fine product.

I've used it – sparingly – on various components of the M1A trigger assembly.  There is plenty of 'flat' and travel on the claws to safely apply a super-thin film of Tetra. The geometry of the lockwork is unusually stable – likely a design consideration in making the original selective-fire M14.

Cheers!