I just wanted to send out a quick blog post regarding some cool M1A finds
Ebay has a new neat little feature that allows users to create “collections”.
These collections are made up by users for the public. Users can select different products from various vendors to display on each profile.
I found some pretty cool M1A Stocks from various vendors on ebay and added them to my “M1A stock collection”.
Check it out here on ebay –> http://www.m1arifles.com/go/m1astockcollection
What’s in the queue for m1arifles.com?
We have some tutorials, videos and reviews on M1a accessories coming soon!
I’ll send out another email soon.
What .308 Ammo to choose?
So, having been in the world of the M1A/M14, I have become kind of an ammo snob. Not necessarily out of name recognition for the manufacture, or because I think that only expensive ammo or items will do. This has come from the conclusion that I dropped a lot of money into the rifle of my dreams, and I want this rifle to function for many, many years. I would also like to have great accuracy as well, so I have conducted a test of 3 different types of ammo. I started the visit by shooting some Venezuelan surplus ammo, approximately 20 rounds. This was done to get the rifle zeroed, the barrel warm and fouled a little, in an effort to try to create a non cold barrel environment. I was shooting at a local range, 100 yards, benchrest with sandbags. There was little wind and the temp was about 70 degrees. All rounds were fired from a Springfield Armory M1A Standard 22” with Basset low rise mount, Vortex rings and Vortex Viper scope, set to X14. All shots are taken with the crosshairs set for the center of the bulls-eye.
The first being PPU PRVI Partizan Match Line 308 Winchester 168gr ammo
Ammo is manufactured with Boxer primers, making it reloadable. Found it at a local shop know for its vast reloading supplies and components. If I remember correctly, I think I paid about $15.00 for a box of 20, taking it to .75 cents a round. On inspection, the box is well made, no issues. Once open though, the flimsy holder and inner box did very little to keep the rounds separated. The rounds themselves were nice shinny with no wear or corrosion. Headstamp was legible and easy to read. Loading them into the CMI 20 round mag was flawless. I proceeded to fire 5 rounds at the target in slow succession. The first round hit about 1.5” high and 1” left, second and third hit 2” high and .75” left, fourth was a flinch/stringer hitting 1.5” high and .5” right and the last hit within the second and third grouping.
The second was Federal Sierra Gold Medal 308 168gr ammo
Ammo is made with Boxer Primers, making them reloadable. Found this ammo at the same shop as the PRVI, but was slightly more expensive at around $19.99 a box, taking it to almost a $1.00 a round. The box seemed a little sturdier then the PRVI, but the most drastic difference was in the plastic holder that held the 20 rounds. Each round was secured tightly, and the holder could be reused in the future. Just like the PRVI, the rounds, cases and headstamps are clear and legible. Each round feed easily in the CMI mags. First and second rounds hit in a nice group just 1.75” high and zeroed with no left or right drift, third round was a flinch/stringer hitting .5” high and maybe .15” left, fourth round hit slightly to the right of the first and second round group and the fifth was a flinch/stringer hitting 1.75” high but 1.25” right. Flinching sucks!!
The third was Portuguese Military Surplus 147gr
The third was Portuguese Military Surplus 147gr, that I found locally at $100 for a sealed battle pack of 200 rounds. I bought 2 sealed packs, and I am seeking more. At just about .50 cents a round, it is great shooting ammo, clean and non-corrosive. The only complaint I have is that it was manufactured with Berdan primer, making it virtually not reloadable, but still fun to shoot. In the sealed battle pack, sealed boxes held 20 rounds with nice legible labels identifying it. The rounds were bright and shinny with no corrosion. The battle pack plastic material is great and if it is truly sealed, will keep out the unwanted efforts of time and environment. Each round loaded into the mag and off I went, but instead of only doing 5 rounds, I went shot 10 rounds in 5 shot sessions. The first shot hit at .5” high and .5” right, second hit .25” high and .10” right, third hit .10” high but 1” right and the fourth and fifth hit in a nice group just 1” high and about .75” right. No flyers, no flinches and no strings. Second session produced a nice grouping, but had a flinch/stringer. First round hit almost dead center with the vertical being dead on but .25” high, second hit 1” high but .10” left, third .5” high and .25” right, fourth was .75” high and 1” right and the fifth and final hitting .75” low and .25” right.
Some things that I gathered from these 3 different types of ammo
First is my rifle is defiantly zeroed for a light round, around 147gr. Second, my rifle holds tight groups with the slightly heavier and match grade ammo. Third, I got to work on the flinching thing. Fourth, I need to work on getting reloading equipment to cut down costs and develop a specific load that my rifle will do great with. Fifth, I need to buy more military surplus ammo as the prices have gone up about $10-$20 per 100 just within a 3 month time frame. Sixth, I need to test out more types and weights of ammo.
I love the groupings I got with the more expensive ammo, but at double the cost of the surplus stuff, it is not feasible just for range outings. Since this range test, I have taken my M14 out to 300 yards with the Portuguese ammo. It did very will, hitting almost dead center where I aimed my crosshairs at a 2’X2’ steel plate. Hits were consistent and produced that gong sound that just makes me grin ear to ear. I have also just purchased locally, 1000 rounds of some Austrian Military Surplus Hirtenberg ammo. The ammo is primarily 1980 headstamps, but has some 78 and 73 mixed in. I have yet to take any of it out for testing, but as soon as I do, I will get a review created and posted here.
My next article is going to be a step by step process on how to create a range book, with range cards, target diagrams, Mildot info and much more. Thanks for reading the article and keep shooting.
Hog hunting can be a lot of fun if you do it right. An M1A is an ideal hunting rifle, but you have to make sure you can find hogs to shoot. You’ll need to find natural hog trails so that you can put feeders down for the hogs to find. If you put the feeders in obscure places, you’re diminishing the likelihood that you’ll get to bag a hog. Put the feeder where hogs travel. Find a trail or a wallow and that’s where you’ll need to put it.
Using hog scents is as effective as using feeders, but again you must put it where the hogs naturally travel for them to be able to find it. Choose dominant boar urine or heat scent, and be sure you’re actually putting it where hogs will naturally be near a stream, wallow or trail.
You’ll also want a good hunting light to shine on the feeder. Being able to light up the target will make all the difference in both how much enjoyment you’ll get from the hunt and how accurate your shots are.
Get yourself a good hog hunting light to hunt at night with. A good feeder light will make those late night and early evening shots much easier to make. Also, you can help attract hogs to your feeder by adding sweetness to it. Any sort of sweet, fruit-flavored powdered drink mix will work as long as you can smell it when you drop it into the feeder and it smells sweet. This tends to attract the hogs.
As far as using an M1a for hog hunting, you’ll find it’s a bit heavier than some other hunting rifles you may be used to. But the biggest factor in making sure you have a successful hog hunt with your M1A is going to be your scope. You’re going to want to be within 100 yards of the target for best results, so a scope with at least 7x magnification should be ideal. Also, the smaller the MOA the better so go with 2 over 4, for instance.
Neck and head shots are the best for bringing down a wild boar, and in order to get that precision shot you don’t want to be too far away with a poor scope. Any shot you make typically in the head and above the shoulders of the hog should be a fast, fatal shot. Otherwise, there’s the risk of only injuring the creature. Shoulder and front quarter shots are undesirable because of the animal’s tough hide and fat, and lack of vital organs. You can avoid the bad shots by making sure you have a well-secured scope and the proper setting on your sight so that you can get a good aim at whatever yardage you’re sitting away from the hog.
You also don’t want to get too close and alert your prey, because they can be dangerous. Standard .308 ammunition works well for hog hunting, if you go with the heavier bullets.
Ok, hopefully we can find a new home for this BSA Red Dot Scope. I have randomly selected a new winner from the m1a rifles newsletter list.
The new winner of the BSA Red Dot Scope is Alan Anderson!!
Congrats to Alan for winning a New BSA Red Dot Scope.
Alan now has 3 days to claim the prize by contacting us via our contact page or by replying to our email. If Alan does not claim the prize within 3 days we will then select another winner from the m1a rifles newsletter.
If you haven’t done so already, be sure to sign up for the m1a rifles newsletter now!
The Springfield Armory M1A rifle is a rifle made in the image of the M14 service rifle, which was the primary weapon used by the United States military in the late 50’s and early 60’s. The M1A should be instantly familiar to gun aficionados and war buffs, because it looks almost exactly like the M14, which was the main rife used by the United States Armed forces in the Vietnam War. The M1A was designed to capture the look and feel of the M14 for gun enthusiasts who want a high performance rifle that also has some history behind it.
It can be difficult to find an M1A rifle at a local shop, so those looking to buy one of these guns may have better luck searching online. There are a number of online gun dealers who sell M1A rifles. Be warned that because they are somewhat scarce and fairly high quality, they often carry a high price tag. This is especially true of the match variants of the M1A, which are highly accurate models designed for shooting in competitions.
Below are a few of the online dealers who sell M1A rifles:
Gun Broker: If you haven’t visited Gun Broker before, it’s basically like an eBay for guns. Guns can be bought, sold, auctioned off, or traded through this service. Needless to say, it’s not exactly like eBay because you can’t just have a gun shipped directly to your home. In order to get an M1A rifle through Gun Broker, you must find someone who is selling one, and also find a local gun shop or someone with a federal firearms license that the gun can be shipped to.
Impact Guns: Impact Guns is a store located in Utah that also has a nice and easy to use online store. They have several M1A rifles and M1A variants, including some of the match rifles. Prices range from just over $1,000 to over $3,000 for the higher end models. Impact Guns also sells a number of accessories and ammunition, so it can be a nice one-stop shop for your M1A needs.
Able’s Gun Shop: Able’s Gun Shop also features a number of different M1A rifles and variants. All of the M1As are frequently going out of stock, which is a testament to the popularity and power of this rifle. You may not be able to find an M1A on your first visit, but you can set up an e-mail notification that will let you know when they have the gun in stock.
The Gun Source: The Gun Source offers a huge selection of M1A rifles and accessories. With all the different models available, you may have better luck finding one that isn’t on backorder. For one’s that out of stock, the site will helpfully tell you how many people are waiting in line in front of you to get the gun you want.
Gun Dealer Online: This site doesn’t feature quite as large of a selection as the previous three, but there are several options available, including the $3,100 Super Match model. Unfortunately, there is no way to back order an out of stock gun.
Have you used these sites before? What other would you recommend? Leave your comment below.
When hunting with an M1A, it is important to choose a rifle sling that has rubberized backing that grips your shoulder comfortably while keeping the sling in place and the rifle where you need it to be. Here is a look at three top rated rifle slings that you can use with your M1A rifle.
#1 – Butler Creek Neoprene Rifle Sling – Retails for between $11.99 and $21.99
These neoprene rifle slings are equipped using comfort stretch backing, designed to reduce the weight of the rifle and to control the bounces that are typically associated with using a neoprene sling for your rifle. The comfort stretch sling is designed to combine the waterproof ability of closed-sell neoprene with comfort-stretch style backing, which reduces the weight of the M1A rifle by 50% while controlling the bounce that you may typically experience. Butler Creek also offers an Alaskan Magnum sling that is made of black neoprene and also features comfort stretch style backing, allowing the sling to give and reduce fatigue of the muscles. The design has non slip features that hold it in place nicely. There is also an Easy Rider sling by this brand that has a shark skin pad backing that is tough and rubberized and that will not slip away from your shoulder.
#2 – Quake Claw Rifle and Shotgun Sling – Retails for between $17.99 and $29.99
When it comes to using a Quake Claw sling for your M1A rifle, you will not have to worry about hearing any sliding or squeaking. The Hush Stalker II Swivel and new design concept makes these some truly super quiet slings with non slip plastic rubber claw pads that offer a unique action for gripping so that they will stay securely on your back or shoulder. Quake Claw offers a Claw Rifle Sling, a Claw Contour Rifle Sling and also a Claw Shotgun Sling, each utilizing excellent gripping action, unique design, crack resistance and fade resistance as well, making these an excellent option for your M1A rifle sling needs.
#3 – Triple K Rifle Sling – Retails for between $17.99 and $24.99
There are two Triple K rifle slings that you can use with your M1A rifle. They are made using to quality leather materials to offer long lasting durability and strength. The first is the Basketweave Triple K Rifle Sling, which has a lining made out of suede which prevents your rifle from slipping away from your shoulder, and it is tapered from 1″ near the swivel to 2″ in thickness. The second is the Military-Style Triple K Rifle Sling, which is adjustable in an infinite number of ways. This Triple K Rifle Sling is constructed out of walnut-oil leather which offers excellent durability as well as utility.
There are many different types of rifle slings out there that are compatible with the M1A rifle, but these are certainly 3 of the best for you to consider.
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Have you tried any of these? Leave your review below!
Anyone who is serious about shooting knows that your choice of ammunition is important, whether it’s in a hunting or competition scenario. While your choice of weapon is the primary concern, ammo is definitely a factor and can make a difference in the health of a firearm and in terms of accuracy. A gun as well made as the M1A rifle deserves to have some good quality ammunition fed into it. So how do you know what type of ammo you should use with your rifle?
Well, first off you have to know what size of ammo that you need. The M1A is designed to use ammunition of 7.62x51mm NATO standard. It can also use .308 Winchester ammo, since the two types are essentially the same. Note that you should not just assume any ammo that says “7.62” is going to work for you. There are 7.62x39mm and 7.62x54mm, which are used for other types of weapons. Also, .308 magnum rounds are different from .308 Winchester, and won’t work in the M1A.
Once you’re sure you’ve got ammo that will work with you M1A, then you need to figure out what you’re going to be using the weapon for. If you’re just going to the firing range to unload some rounds, then you’re probably not overly concerned about pinpoint accuracy. However, if you’re going hunting for small game or you’re target shooting in a competition setting, then you may want some top-quality ammo that will give you better accuracy.
When accuracy is the concern, then you have to consider the grain of the bullet. Grain is a type of measurement used for bullets. The larger the grain, the heavier the bullet is. Bullets that are too light are more susceptible to factors such as wind, while bullets that are too heavy are pulled more by gravity, and will be pulled to the ground faster. The M1A can use any grain from 147 to 180.
It’s not a huge issue for relatively short-range shooting or shooting at large targets; so casual shooters can safely ignore grain as long as they’re within the right range. For tournament level shooters, Springfield Armory recommends 168-grain bullets manufactured by a match grade ammo company. 168-grain is also recommend for deer hunting, but a larger grain is better for bigger game, such as moose.
Another consideration is the actual type of bullet casing. Hollow point rounds are known for their improved accuracy, and many hunters also recommend them because they can cause quick and humane kills. The other common option is full metal jacket ammunition, the main advantage of which is that it has less chance of misfiring. The relatively new ballistic tip ammo attempts to combine the advantages of both, but is more expensive.
Finally, for the health of your firearm, it’s important not to use soft-tipped bullets. The problem is that the soft parts get shaved off the bullets and end up in the gun’s inner workings, and this can then jam up the whole gun. Stick to using bullets that are standard full metal jacket, hollow point, or ballistic tip.
- Any grain from 147 to 180 is usable.
- 168 grain is recommended for best accuracy
- Use FMJ, HP, or “ballistic tip” type rounds (Hsoi: i.e. plastic tiped bullets; note that the term “Ballistic Tip” is a registered trademark of Nosler, so it shouldn’t be used as a generic term for “plastic tipped” bullets)
- Avoid soft points. The lead can shave and wind up down in the action and jam it up.
- Avoid steel-cased ammo (not necessarily SAAMI spec)
- Avoid Hornady TAP (not sure why this)
- Avoid Cavim ammo as it’s not very accurate and varies in size
- Winchester Silver Tip is OK to use (I’m not sure if they differentiate between Winchester Super-X Silvertip and Winchester Supreme Ballistic Silvertip, and/or if it matters. The Silvertip is an aluminum cap whereas the Ballstic Silvertip is a polycarbonate tip. Don’t know if it matters, and it probably doesn’t.)
- Hornady Ballistic Tip (technically Nosler makes Ballistic Tip, as it’s their registered trademark. Are they meaning A-Max or V-Max? I don’t know, but you get the idea.)
- Winchester Failsafe (Winchester doesn’t make this any more, replacing with the XP3 line.)
- 168 grain for deer
- 175 grain for moose
- Moly coated bullets are OK to use but when you start to use them you must stay with them. You will have to clean the gas port more often. SAI does not recommend. If you do use them, it will gum up fast, and you’ll have to clean often and clean well.
- Tracer and armor piercing ammo is OK, as long as it’s NATO spec.
- Frangible ammo is too light, won’t work.
There’s a few other things in the posting, but it’s a bit redundant. Their terms are a bit informal so it’s difficult to know exactly what’s what, especially regarding hunting ammo. The key thing seems to be that you can NOT use anything with an exposed soft point. The reason is any exposed lead will shave off, get down into the action, and jam things up. I have read of people using exposed soft points in their M1A’s “without any problem” but why risk any problems?
So, what’s on your mind? Have something to add? Feel free to comment below!
The first thing that should make you want the JAE-100 is the material that it is made of. When you take a look at the materials that went into making this particular rifle stock, what you will see is complete metal. All kinds of the most durable metallic alloys around were used in the manufacture of this rifle stock. That not only makes it a better complimentary fit to your M1A if it was constructed standard, but it also means that you don’t have to worry about the stock succumbing to wear and tear anytime soon. Those are both huge advantages to choosing this particular rifle stock product.
Unfortunately, one of the major drawbacks to a lot of these rifle stock manufacturers is that they are not too picky about ensuring a perfect fit for their rifle stock. You should be especially suspicious of any that claim that they have the ability to fit multiple rifles from different manufacturers.
This is not true of the JAE-100 G2 however, as it claims to be made specifically for the M1A rifle. Some of the more ambitious sellers might claim that M14 style rifles are all good, but at its heart this rifle stock is definitely for the M1A. That should increase overall functionality as well as make it easy to troubleshoot any problems that might arise. Overall, a good fit is just better for these and other obvious reasons.
At the same time that the M1A is the perfect rifle for this rifle stock, you will realize pretty soon after purchasing it that the JAE-100 is fully adjustable. Adjusting the rifle stock is a simple matter of manipulating the interface so that you can get it to fit on your M1A rifle exactly how you would like it to be. The adjustability is also probably what allows some to claim that it can fit all M14 style rifles. We cannot comment on that particular attribute, but we can confirm that this rifle stock fits the M1A like a comfortable glove.
The overall cost of this rifle stock will be in the $900 to $1000 range. This is not cheap in the general sense, but it is definitely cheap for rifle stocks created from Aluminum and Titanium that also have the list of features and advantages listed above. In fact, many rifle accessory sales will allow you to get the JAE-100 for $900 nowadays and at that price this stock is most definitely an absolute steal.
One last reason why you want the JAE-100 has to be its ability to continually deliver the same level of high performance again and again. Any rifle stock can be attached and immediately proxy for a bolt in terms of its performance, but over time many of them tend to decay. This is not good. However, the JAE-100 is different. You will be able to rely on it for years, making it easily one of the best investments you could make for your rifle.
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The M1A rifle is one of the various types of rifles that you can purchase for your own use. There are various aspects of this rifle that could make it the best rifle for your own needs. With that being said, the M1A rifle could also be the wrong rifle for what you need it for. Taking a look into exactly what the M1A rifle is will help you to understand as much as possible about what the rifle can do for you.
The M1A rifle is actually a different version of a Military rifle that was created for the United States. This rifle is known as the M14, and was created by the exact same company. There is actually a drastic difference between the two. The military rifle was created under specific specifications by the US government. This means that the rifle was built to be able to handle serious combat. The guns were made to be able to handle more, and are therefore more expensive than the M1A.
The M1A rifle is a semi-automatic weapon. While many people want to attempt to turn it into an automatic weapon, it cannot be. It cannot be modified into an automatic. Beware of anyone trying to tell you that an M1A is an automatic; the gun is not very stable with an automatic setting. Even if someone managed to modify it to be automatic, it would not be a good rifle to have or shoot with.
The major company creating the M1A rifle is the Springfield Armory, Inc. While there are other companies creating the rifle, this was the original. Fulton Armory also builds a rifle resembling the M1A. While there are specific types of international M1A rifles floating around, they can no longer be imported into the US.
There are various accessories that can be added to the M1A rifle. Each accessory can add something to the rifle, but could change the way it behaves or feels. Test out various accessories before decided on the one to use.
In the United States, the M1A rifle must be registered with the government. The National Firearms Act actually requires the regulation of the M1A Rifle. Because of varying gun laws by state, there are differences between states. Some states will require that you have a permit to be able to purchase the M1A rifle. Other states simply state that you must register the firearm after you purchase it. Each state may be different. Check your local laws to fully understand how you can legally own a M1A Rifle.
The M1A rifle has seen popularity grow steadily, simply because it is known to be a good rifle. While it cannot fit all needs, it fits a myriad of needs that people may have. That alone makes it important to research and consider the M1A Rifle for your own personal needs. While it may not be perfect, it can help you to understand exactly what you need, and if it is the right rifle for you.
The M1A Rifle is a popular rifle that many use on a regular basis. Those who own the rifle know of the actual abilities and facts of the rifle itself. Those who do not own the rifle may still believe some of the myths about the rifle itself. Understanding as much as possible about the M1A rifle when looking into a gun will help you to find fact from fiction. A little research may help you to understand that this is the best rifle for you.
The M1A is Fully Automatic
One of the biggest myths surrounding the M1A is that the rifle is an automatic rifle. The M1A is actually semi-automatic. The M1A is not actually completely (fully) automatic. Some people claim that they can modify the M1A to turn it into an automatic weapon. The M1A cannot be turned into something automatic. Any M1A that claims to be fully automatic is not the rifle that you are looking for, as it is a fraud.
The M1A is Military Grade
Another myth revolving around the M1A is that it is a military grade firearm. Many believe this myth simply because of how close to truth this can be. The M1A is close to the M14. The M14 is an actual military rifle. The M1A was created as a normal version of the rifle. It is not made to military grade standards, and is therefore not a military grade firearm.
The M1A Matches the M14
This next myth stems from the idea of the military M14. Many are led to believe that even though the M1A is a “normal” version of the military rifle, they are the same. There are multiple differences between the M1A and the M14. The M1A is much less expensive than the M14 because of the process that creates it. The process to make this rifle is not nearly as complicated as the process for the M14. The M14 is created to handle more than the usual M1A.
There are certain types of M1A rifles that are no longer created. While you can still find these rifles around, there are no new ones being created and built. A small myth revolves around the fact that it is easy to find the M1A rifle. While it is not impossible, it is harder than it has been in the past.
It can be easy to believe any of the myths of the M1 A rifle. Many fail to do research about the guns that they are looking into. They simply have heard about a gun and want to make sure that they have that gun. Learning as much as you can about the myths and facts about the M1 A rifle will help you to know exactly what you are getting into. The M1 A rifle may be perfect for your needs. Without the proper research, however, you might not know that.
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